 The strawberry cultivated today has resulted from the interbreeding of a number of Fragaria species, principally the North American F. virginiana as well as the South American F. chiloensis. This intermingling of genetic characteristics has resulted in a fruit of great variety in taste and color, with a cropping ability and season of such versatility that it can be grown from the Tropics to the cool temperate regions of the world. It is no wonder the strawberry is the most popular soft fruit. For the purposes of cultivation the strawberry is divided into three categories: the ordinary June-fruiting strawberry; the socalled ever-bearing strawberry that produces one crop in the spring and a second crop in the fall; and the alpine strawberry (Fragaria vesca, subspecies alpina), a mountain form of wild strawberry. Standard strawberries The ordinary, or June-bearing strawberry, crops once only in the early summer. A few do crop again in fall and these are called "two crop" varieties, but they are cultivated in the same way as the others. The expected yield per strawberry plant is about 8-10 oz. Cultivation of strawberries Some gardeners prefer to grow strawberries as an annual crop, planting new runners each year. This method produces high quality fruits but a lower yield than that of larger two- or three-year-old plants. Soil and situation Most soils are suitable for strawberries, but they should be well drained. On waterlogged land, if a drainage system is not practicable, grow strawberries on ridges 2-3 in high. They prefer a slightly acid (pH 6.0-6.5) light loam in a frost-free, sunny situation. They will, however, tolerate some shade and because many varieties flower over a long period, the later flowers should escape spring frosts. Strawberries are readily attacked by soil-borne pests and diseases and a system of soil rotation should be practiced. Do not grow them for more than three or four years in any one site. For this reason, strawberries are best grown with the vegetables rather than with the more permanent fruit plants. Strawberries Soil preparation A strawberry bed will be down for three or four years, and the initial preparations should be thorough so that the land is made fertile and free from perennial weeds. In July dig in well-rotted manure or compost at about the rate of 14 lb to the square yard. Rake off any surplus because bulky organics on the surface encourage slugs, snails and millipedes. Once applied, no more organics should be needed for the life of the bed. Just before planting, lightly fork in a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 at 3 oz per square yard. Planting and spacing The earlier the planting, the better the maiden crop in the following year. Plant in early spring after the ground has started to warm up. It is not necessary to wait until frost danger has passed. In the warmest American climates, however, it is better to plant in October. Plant the runners in moist soil with the crown of the strawberry just level with the soil surface; planting too deep may result in the rotting of the buds and planting too shallow may cause drying out. Plant with a trowel or hand fork, spreading out the roots well. Replace the soil and firm it. Space the plants 18 in apart in rows 3 ft apart. On a light soil they can be 15 in apart with 2k ft between the rows. Plants to be grown for two years need only 12 in spacing. Pollination The flowers are pollinated by bees and such crawling insects as pollen beetles. Imperfect pollination results in malformed fruits. All modern varieties are self-fertile. Watering and feeding. Water regularly for the first few weeks after planting and whenever dry conditions occur during the growing season, but try to keep water away from the ripening berries because this encourages gray mold (Botrytis cinerea). The risk is less with trickle or drip irrigation because only the soil is wetted. Damp conditions overnight also encourage botrytis; water in the morning so that the plants are dry by nightfall. In mid-August each year, apply a balanced fertilizer at 1/2 oz per square yard along each side of the row. No other feeding is necessary unless growth has been poor. In this case apply sulfate of ammonia at 1/2 oz per square yard in April, taking care to prevent fertilizer touching the foliage because it will scorch it. Weed control Weeds compete for nutrients and water. Keep the rows clean by shallow hoeing and tuck any runners into the row to fill gaps. Pay particular attention to cleaning up between the rows before mulching. "Weed killers" may be used. In general, shallow cultivation of strawberries keeps weed growth in check. But care should be taken to weed strawberry beds each fall, and particular attention should be paid to the removal of all weeds.
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